
Bernard
Chandran Flirts with the Pop Culture of the East in His Spring/Summer 09
As
Asia moves rapidly into new social, political and economic dimensions,
Bernard Chandran sees his Spring Summer 09 slant slightly east, paying
homage to several dimensions of his privileged background.
Literally speaking, Bernard Chandran does combine the best of every
world; his heritage hails from the exotic influence of his mixed
Indian-Chinese parentage. Juxtapose the richness of these two cultures
with being raised in the Malay world, and having trained for his
fashion degree in Paris and then establishing an international presence
in London Bernard Chandran is truly an enigma who constantly reinvents
himself as he combines the eclectic with the practical, especially when
it comes to interpreting cultures on the runway.
Whilst the Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 09 collection draws its
influence from the east, there is no sign of the usual predictabilities
of the embroidered dragon, chinoiserie nor the typical oriental motifs.
Drawing influence from the pop culture of the east, the design is bold
and geometrical but comes with a slash of flamboyance and
experimentation of new angular cuts for the short dresses. The
collection has a subtle blend of oriental flavours spotting unique
yin-yang subtleties with a ‘twist’. “Mandarin moment” collars are mixed
with the metal age of the west while creatively convex-shaped dresses
elongate the silhouettes on the runway. The cut at the shoulders is
most innovative having a pointed but rounded edge, where one is given
the alternative to wear them up or down for a distinctly different yet
dramatic flair.
The silhouette is simple, somewhat structured, but blends beautifully
with stylized lotus leaf motifs and trimmings. One particular design
has the leaf motif spotted at the back of the skirt, giving it an edgy
finishing. Bubbled shorts and long pants were given new
treatments of pleating, resulting in the outcome a curvier finishing
which is both flattering and fashionable. Tops were given a
bubbled softness but the superior cut made the blouses fall
effortlessly according to body shape.
|