Bernard Chandran Flirts with the Pop Culture of the East in His Spring/Summer 09

As Asia moves rapidly into new social, political and economic dimensions, Bernard Chandran sees his Spring Summer 09 slant slightly east, paying homage to several dimensions of his privileged background.  

Literally speaking, Bernard Chandran does combine the best of every world; his heritage hails from the exotic influence of his mixed Indian-Chinese parentage. Juxtapose the richness of these two cultures with being raised in the Malay world, and having trained for his fashion degree in Paris and then establishing an international presence in London Bernard Chandran is truly an enigma who constantly reinvents himself as he combines the eclectic with the practical, especially when it comes to interpreting cultures on the runway.

Whilst the Bernard Chandran Spring Summer 09 collection draws its influence from the east, there is no sign of the usual predictabilities of the embroidered dragon, chinoiserie nor the typical oriental motifs.  

Drawing influence from the pop culture of the east, the design is bold and geometrical but comes with a slash of flamboyance and experimentation of new angular cuts for the short dresses.  The collection has a subtle blend of oriental flavours spotting unique yin-yang subtleties with a ‘twist’. “Mandarin moment” collars are mixed with the metal age of the west while creatively convex-shaped dresses elongate the silhouettes on the runway. The cut at the shoulders is most innovative having a pointed but rounded edge, where one is given the alternative to wear them up or down for a distinctly different yet dramatic flair.

The silhouette is simple, somewhat structured, but blends beautifully with stylized lotus leaf motifs and trimmings. One particular design has the leaf motif spotted at the back of the skirt, giving it an edgy finishing.  Bubbled shorts and long pants were given new treatments of pleating, resulting in the outcome a curvier finishing which is both flattering and fashionable.  Tops were given a bubbled softness but the superior cut made the blouses fall effortlessly according to body shape.